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Introduction Why are American watches from the 1920’s – 1960’s so popular? For the simple reason that they are no longer made and are therefore only available in limited quantities. Their exceptional beauty has been unrivalled since they were first made and now that people have more money to spend it is no longer frowned upon to treat yourself or a loved ones to an expensive gift. Now is also the time to buy for collectors because numbers of American vintage watches are already scarce. Experts continue to praise the high quality of American watches from this particular period and the availability of more books on the subject has led to an increase in the popularity of these watches. American vintage watches have earned their rightful place in the global economy by offering good quality clockwork inside beautiful, original casings. Famous names are Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Hamilton, Illinois and Waltham.
Demand for wrist watches first started after the First World War because soldiers had been introduced to military wrist watches at the front. These military watches, however, were designed to be primarily functional. Watches designed after the war, on the other hand, also placed great emphasis on the decorative aspect of the watch. Having originated from pocket watches, the first wrist watches reflect a similar round shape due to the clockwork that needed to fit inside. Watch designs from before 1925 are influenced by the Jugendstil style (1890-1910). The more rectangular shapes still seen today originated in the 1920’s, influenced by the Art Deco period (1925-1936). Clock faces were originally made from enamel but they were quickly replaced by metal faces with a lacquered finish because these were less expensive and less fragile. You can find an endless variety in the numbers, lay-out, hands, materials, decorations, colours, strap attachments and, importantly, shapes. Watchmakers realised that every watch had to be unique and their success was a result of this unique vision, design, expertise and economic prosperity. A downturn in the economy spells the end of the Art Deco period. The period after the Second World War gives rise to “retro-modernism”. In the fifties there is a demand for a return to designs from before the war and decorations get more and more extravagant. However, this trend did not last long and soon new avenues were explored as a result of increased competition and the availability of new materials and techniques. The first experiments with electric watches were conducted at the end of the 1950’s.
So why do designs from the Art Deco period still continue to make such an impression on us? Does this mean there is such a thing as “absolute beauty”? The Art Deco period was born out of the Art Nouveau movement and clear lines are one of its most important hallmarks, following the influence of factors such as industrialisation and mechanisation. Images created in the Art Deco period often reflect an atmosphere of hope and expectation, but also an air of uncertainty caused by the remembrance of the First World War and the threat of a Second World War. Moreover, Art Deco’s extensive cross-fertilisation between architecture, paintings, sculpture, graphics, fashion, film, music, glass, ceramics, silverware and jewellery makes it one of the richest and most exciting periods in the world of design.
Europe first led the way in the development of the wrist watch in the 1850’s with famous names such as Patek Philippe, Omega and Girard, Perregaux. America commenced production in the 1900’s but Swiss independence in the First World War meant Europe had a head start. However, in the period between 1920 and 1940 American development of the wrist watch supersedes that of Europe due to industrialisation, specialisation and marketing of functional, good quality American watches with unique designs. The industrial revolution in America and its subsequent influence on popular culture, architecture and music introduced the American way of life to Europe and increased the popularity of American wrist watches. After the Second World War, though, the Swiss take back the lead due to their independence in the war and their watch designs remain conservative. Until 1955 designers are still heavily influenced by the Art Deco style launched before the war but after that follows a more permanent break with the Art Deco period. During this period American watchmakers have rather more progressive ideas, more suited to a modern world. America and The Netherlands
Two World Wars and subsequent economic problems meant there was not a great demand for American wrist watches in The Netherlands in the years between 1920 and 1950. Few people had money to spend on such luxuries and such extravagance was not appreciated in a mainly Calvinistic society.
Future
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